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|Savage X Break-down (warning:lots of photos)
|Posted by dracy69
This is a basic overview of the Savage X. This will show you whats new on the truck and how the truck come's apart. The truck was a little dirty but it shouldnt hurt too much.
Well lets get started on a run down of the trucks big features
There is more but those are the biggest hitters. Now here is a break down of the entire truck
- New F4.1 (4.1cc/.26ci)
- Easy Access Diffs
- Easy Access Tranny
- Easy Access Radio Box
- 17mm Hex Hubs
- 5mm Lowered Chassis
- Nylon Rollbar and Head Protector
|We will start at the Differential, It has 4 Steel spider gears sandwiched by 2 steel bevel gears inside a plastic case. A 43t Pinion is bolted to the diff. The diff is filled with Heavy grease. For the diff Id recommend you pick up some silicon lube. Fill the front with 10k and the back with 3k. Be sure to use brake clean/nitro clean to completely remove the grease before putting the silicon stuff in. Coat the outside of the diff in grease. Refer to my other Tips & Tricks post for removing the differential.|
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Next up is the Radio box and Electronics. Removing the case is pretty simple, twist the knob 90 degrees, and pop off the case. You have to pull the back up before the front. The casing has 2 removeable tabs, one rubber and one plastic. The plastic is for a battery level indicator (now available part #308) and the other is for a charging jack (if using a rechargeable RX pack).
Some new design feature's this case, the case covers the throttle servo for more protection against the elements, and also shaped for more space inside then the last box. Underneath this new radio box is a 2 ch. Futaba AM Receiver and a 4 AA RX battery pack. Also a standard Futaba servo (SF-1) putting out 50oz. of torque. The steering servo is the hightorque SF-2 which puts out 80 oz. of torque. HPI bundled up all the wire's for you making things easier. Now if your looking to get the most from your radio system, get upgraded batteries. A 5-cell hump pack and a good charger to go along with it is recommended. atleast 1200mAH. If you cannot immediately get these, the Energizer E2 Litium AA batteries are a great buy and may actually outperform the hump packs. but at 10 bucks for every 4, it is more economical to get the hump pack. If after the battery upgrade you are still looking for more power, get a new steering servo with atleast 150 oz. of torque and take the stock steering servo and put it in the throttle position (to get better brake's and throttle response). I will make a new post referring to a valueable throttle linkage mod. To compensate for a more powerful steering servo, tighten the spring in the servo saver. Or upgrade to a spring from the Ofna Monster Pirate servo saver. I will show the steering set-up later on.
Next up is the Tranny. To remove the vital components of the tranny, you must first remove the counter-sunk screws holding the rollbar on. If you have the head protector on you need to remove the body clips holding that on also. Next, remove the 2 screws accessed through the top of the tranny. You cannot use a universal (4-in-1) screw driver on this, the holes are too thin. Just standard #2 screwdrivers will work on this.
Now you can see the guts of the tranny. Attatched to the main driveshaft is a 49 tooth plastic spurgear. But this spur gear is unique, It is a dual slipper, this allows more sliping when you need it and grip when you need grip. The slipper is adjusted by an M3 nut threaded onto the shaft which adjusts the tension of the spring. Obviously the tighter you go the less slip.
There is also a rubber boot inside the slipper hub for even more shock resistance to protect the spur gear.
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Next up for the tranny is the internals. On that main shaft are 18 tooth and 23 tooth steel drive gears. Driven by these gears are 39 and 44 tooth Plastic spurgears housing a heavy duty centrifigal 2-speed clutch. The clutch is adjustable (to adjust shift points) via a 2.0mm hex screw, the bottom screw is the adjustment screw, the top is a set screw which attatch's the clutch to the idler shaft. Last on the idler shaft is the 29 tooth idler gear. This transfers the power from the idler shaft to the bottom gear shaft. The final drive gear is a 32 tooth gear.
The Chassis is a Metallic Gunmetal gray, the picture doesnt show the color well, seeing it up close in person will show its true beauty. A ,illed out X with White accents is simply beautiful. The Chassis lowers the Engine and Tranny 5mm from previous models, The set back is the small x below the engine plate is a little weak and may snap. Also, at each end of the TVP youll notice 2 hole's. the Top hole is for a pin that keeps the bulkhead assembly from pivoting, the bottom holds a fine threaded screw. Use model glue on the pin in the top hole (before you drive) and threadlock the screw. you will lose both if you dont and your truck will literally fall apart. HPI should take note of this.
Here is a shot of the bottom of the truck, you get a good look at the brake's, engineplate, and driveshafts. The brake system consists of a fiber brake disc, Steel calipers/pads, and a cast aluminum brake hub. nothing needs to be improved here, give your radio the proper juice (batteries) the brake's will grab. The driveshafts are steel with steel axels (drivecups). The driveshafts hold great but the axels are soft, especially with the new engine. Although they last, after a year they will start to snap driveshafts. Replacing them with HPI's hardened shiny axel's (#86276 for the tranny outdrive's and #86277 for the diff drive's) will make it bulletproof. Nothing to improve on the engine plate, but threadlock the mounting screws because they are going into metal and that area is under the most vibrations. The servo saver is under the skidplate, to adjust it rotate the knob under the spring to adjust the tension, tightening means more responsive stiffer steering movment but less protection for the servo, tighten for stronger servo's and leave allone with the stock servo. You may want to purchase the Ofna MP servo saver (#18098) and use the spring and bearings from it. The stock plastic bushings on the stock will wear down and create play in the steering. The stock spring may be too weak for stronger servo's creating an on-power push (while driving).
Here is the entire rear end removed. This is one of the great things about the Savage, modular construction. You can unbolt one TVP and remove the specific section of the truck and the rest can stay together. This actually makes a Savage easier to work on then alot of other trucks. It also makes it much more durable.
|Posted Saturday, Sep 16th 2006
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