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Electric Kits
General Questions
| Batteries | Battery Chargers
| Electronic Speed Controllers | Motors
| Gears | Radio
Most Common Questions
How
fast do they go?
Our
Dash will reach about 10-12 mph, the Micro reaches speeds between 10 and
30 mph, our other touring car kits about 25-32 mph. The electric RS4 MT
will go between 20 and 25 mph. The various Nitro cars and trucks we produce
reach speeds of about 30-40 mph "out of the box" (stock), while
various option parts like engines, 2 speeds and aerodynamic bodies will
enable them to go to speed up to 60-80 mph.
How much
do they cost?
The Dash is our cheapest Ready To Run (RTR) kit, it is about $100
through hobby shops and other retailers (see our Links
page). The Dash kit includes everything you need to run it, there is nothing
more to buy. The RTR Micro RS4 is about $200 and requires instant glue
and 12 AA batteries. Our other electric kits range from $150 to $200 in
price, however you will need additional items like the radio, batteries,
etc. See the individual kit pages for what else you will need.
Can you convert
(car A) into (car B)?
Many of our kits share common parts and can be "converted"
into other types of kits (truck, rally, touring car) with varying degrees
of difficulty. We have no official lists of parts to do these conversions,
however, use the Search function of our R/C Forum to find instructions
for various conversions compiled by our loyal customers.
Can I order
parts or kits from you direct?
We encourage all hobbyists to order and purchase their items from
their local hobby shops whenever possible. If this is not possible, visit
our Links page for online and mail order retailers
you can order from. Our Buy HPI
site has some parts available, however the prices are at "full retail".
Why are prices
listed in your catalog if I can't buy direct?
We encourage all hobbyists to order and purchase their items from
their local hobby shops whenever possible. Our Buy
HPI site is meant for hobbyists who wish to obtain HPI gear that would
be too expensive under normal distribution channels, discontinued products
and a few "package" deals for engine parts, etc. We are not
trying to take the place of your local shop.
What is the
next car kit/body/part you will release?
Sorry, we prefer not to release information like that! Sometimes we
will give out prerelease information on our R/C Forum, if you pay attention
there you might find out some "secret" info.
Can you sponsor
me?
At this time, we have a very small team of racers from Europe, Japan
and the USA. All of our drivers have won or placed very well in various
National championship series, IFMAR World Championship events or work
for HPI or our distributors. Instead of spending lots of money on a large
team of drivers, we prefer to have full-time employees to help thousands
of our dedicated customers, have a more helpful web site, maintain the
R/C Forum, offer parts and services on our Buy HPI site and run a series
of fun races for HPI customers. You are still free to email or mail your
racing resume to us for consideration.
When will
more Nitro Star Pro parts and engines be available?
Novarossi makes the Nitro Star Pro engines for HPI, as well as other
OEM engines for several other companies. HPI is not the only company who
must wait on parts from Novarossi, and if Novarossi is unable to keep
up with the demand on their engine production, all of their OEM customers
(like HPI) suffer. We try as hard as possible to get engines and parts
in our stock to ship ot our distributors, however if you are unable to
find replacement parts or engines for your Nitro Star Pro, try engines
from Serpent/Mega, Rex, Mugen, RB Concept and other companies that source
from Novarossi.
I've
ordered ____ part but it hasn't arrived!
There are rare times when HPI parts can be difficult to find, even if
you've placed an order. In the past couple of years HPI parts have been
easier to find than ever. If you order from your local hobby shop, you
will usually get the part you need within 4 days. If it takes longer,
your shop's distributor is looking for the part and it will probably arrive
within a short time. Sometimes our suppliers cannot keep up with our demands,
in which case we will be out of stock and parts supply will be very limited.
This happens very infrequently, however.
General Questions
How
fast do they go?
Our Dash will reach about 10-12 mph, the Micro reaches speeds between
10 and 30 mph, our other touring car kits about 25-32 mph. The electric
RS4 MT will go between 20 and 25 mph. The various Nitro cars and trucks
we produce reach speeds of about 30-40 mph "out of the box"
(stock), while various option parts like engines, 2 speeds and aerodynamic
bodies will enable them to go to speed up to 60-80 mph.
How much
do they cost?
The Dash is our cheapest Ready To Run (RTR) kit, it is about $100
through hobby shops and other retailers (see our Links
page). The Dash kit includes everything you need to run it, there is nothing
more to buy. The RTR Micro RS4 is about $200 and requires instant glue
and 12 AA batteries. Our other electric kits range from $150 to $200 in
price, however you will need additional items like the radio, batteries,
etc. See the individual kit pages for what else you will need.
Can you sponsor
me?
At this time, we have a very small team of racers from Europe, Japan
and the USA. All of our drivers have won or placed very well in various
National championship series, IFMAR World Championship events or work
for HPI or our distributors. Instead of spending lots of money on a large
team of drivers, we prefer to have full-time employees to help thousands
of our dedicated customers, have a more helpful web site, maintain the
R/C Forum, offer parts and services on our Buy HPI site and run a series
of fun races for HPI customers. You are still free to email or mail your
racing resume to us for consideration.
Can I order
parts or kits from you direct?
We encourage all hobbyists to order and purchase their items from
their local hobby shops whenever possible. If this is not possible, visit
our Links page for online and mail order retailers
you can order from. Our Buy HPI
site has some parts available, however the prices are at "full retail".
Can you convert
(car A) into (car B)?
Many of our kits share common parts and can be "converted"
into other types of kits (truck, rally, touring car) with varying degrees
of difficulty. We have no official lists of parts to do these conversions,
however, use the Search function of our R/C Forum to find instructions
for various conversions compiled by our loyal customers.
What is the
next car kit/body/part you will release?
Sorry, we prefer not to release information like that! Sometimes we
will give out prerelease information on our R/C Forum, if you pay attention
there you might find out some "secret" info.
What are
the gear ratios of your kits?
RS4 Mini -- 2.13
RS4 Rally -- 2.13
RS4 Pro -- 2.13
RS4 Pro 2 -- 2.13
RS4 Pro 3 -- 2.25
RS4 Sport -- 2.13
RS4 Sport 2 -- 2.13
Nitro RS4 Mini -- 2.16
Nitro RS4 -- 2.16
RTR Nitro RS4 -- 2.16
Nitro RS4 Racer -- 2.16
Nitro RS4 Racer 2 -- 2.16
Nitro RS4 2 -- 2.16
Super Nitro RS4-- 2.16
RS4 MT -- 2.6
Nitro Rush -- 2.61
Nitro RS4 MT -- 2.92
Nitro RS4 MT Racer -- 2.92
RTR Nitro RS4 MT -- 2.92
Where
can I find ____ part?
All of our parts can be found at your local hobby shop. We maintain
a very good list of local shops in our Dealer
List page. If you don't have a shop nearby, you can contact a mail
order or Internet retailer from our Links page.
You can also buy most HPI spare parts from our Buy
HPI site.
What's
the fastest electric car you have?
The top speed of our electric car or truck kits depends mostly on
the type of motor you use. A "stock" motor (in the United States,
this means 27-turn motor) will have enough power to push our electric
Touring Car kits to about 25 mph. The electric RS4 MT will go between
20 and 25 mph. A "modified" motor is more expensive but much
more powerful, and these modified motors are available in different "winds"
that have different amounts of power. With a modified motor, you can expect
to reach speeds between 30 and 40 mph, if you have enough room to let
the car reach top speed.
Why
do you use Philips head screws/Aren't Allen head screws better?
HPI kits are sold around the world, and in many countries Allen head
screws are difficult to find. We want to introduce as many hobbyists as
possible to the radio control hobby, and using a worldwide standard screw
is one way we achieve this goal.
How
can I lower my lap times?
This is the ultimate goal of any racer, no matter what type of car,
truck, buggy, etc. is being driven. If you are just starting out the best
thing to do is use the stock setup out of the box for your kit and practice
constantly. Practice is the ONLY way to get bet when you are starting
out with the R/C hobby. Running your car every day is the fastest way
to be fast.
When you can drive consistently
around the track without hitting any walls or corner dots, make a change
to the car and see what it does. Keep track of the changes and their effect
in a notebook. Use our setup sheets provided
to keep track of changes and what happens when you alter the setup. Have
a friend time your practice runs with a stopwatch so you can see what
changes make real progress in lowering your lap times.
What
is the best option part to get?
This depends on what you are looking to achieve from your car or truck
kit. If all you want is top speed, a set of the right spur and pinion
gears and a modified motor will satisfy your urge. If you plan to race
your car, a set of the "right" tires (see below) will help out
the most. Sometimes you just have some money to spend and want to make
your car look nice. We offer purple aluminum parts for all of our kits,
which help make the car much brighter and can strengthen it as well. If
you need to tune your car for racing, a set of shock towers with extra
mounting holes, a graphite chassis to replace a stock chassis.
What
setup should I use?
The "right" setup is entirely dependent on what you are
doing with the car. If you are only running in your parking lot or driveway,
a higher ride height than what is specified in the kit manual may be best.
This would allow you to drive over pebbles and cracks in the road. If
you plan to race your kit, see our Setup and
Tuning page for some help, and ask on our R/C
Forum to get tips from racers around the world!
How
should I maintain my car?
You can find many tips on maintenance and cleaning in our Maintenance
page, which answers questions for both electric and Nitro car owners.
Also, see our Links page for R/C magazine websites
around the world. All of the major magazines have up-to-date web sites
that have articls on maintenance, setups and more.
What
tires should I use?
For playing around with your friends, the stock tires that come with
your kit will be fine, but just like real car tires, they won't last forever.
Eventually they will wear out and you'll want to upgrade to better tires
or cool-looking treaded tires. HPI offers a complete line of racing and
"fun" tires for every level of R/C. Just see our Tires
page and find the type of kit you have to see our complete line-up
of optional tires! You can get the same tires that came in your kit or
you can get more race-oriented tires, it's your choice. Just read the
recommendations on each tire page to find out what will work best. If
you still need help, ask on our R/C
Forum for help on tire choices and check at the track you plan to
race with what will work best.
Are
26mm tires better than 24mm tires?
In most applications, racers using 24mm rubber tires will find their
car handles better than when using 26mm tires. 24mm tires and wheels are
lighter and offer faster acceleration than 26mm tires and wheels.
How
do I use the tweak or droop screws?
From our R/C Glossary: Tweak is a condition
at the front or rear of the car where one tire has more load on it than
the other. For example, if the right rear tire has more weight on it than
the left rear tire, the car is said to be "tweaked". This can
make the car behave unpredictably, including spinning out in turns, turning
more in one direction than the other, upsetting the steering trim, and
many other problems.
To check tweak
(you should check between each race):
A) Hobby Knife Method: Set the car on a flat, level surface. Using a
hobby knife, lift one end of the car at the center point. Watch closely
which tire lifts off the surface first. If both tires lift off at the
same time, that end of the car is not tweaked. If one tire lifts off
before the other, adjust the tweak (see below), turn the car around
and check the other end. Adjusting the tweak using the "hobby knife
method" must be done by adjusting shock length. An easier way to
adjust tweak is with a device like the MIP Tweak Station (see below).
B) Tweak Device
Method: You can also use a device like the MIP Tweak Station to check
the tweak. Devices like this set one end of the car level, and puts
the other end of the car on a pivoting surface. This lets the device
show the tweak at either end of the car, without being affected by the
opposite end. If the bubble is level, the car is not tweaked at that
end. If the bubble is not level, that end of the car is tweaked. Adjust
the tweak (see below), turn the car around and check the other end.
Adjusting the tweak using this type of device requires adjusting the
shock preload using threaded shock bodies or ride height clips. NOTE:
before using a tweak device, use the adjustable legs to make sure the
device is completely level, and set the shock preloads to the same amounts
left and right at each end of your car.
To adjust tweak:
a) Using the Hobby Knife Method above, if a tire lifts off the ground
first, you must lengthen the shock shaft that attaches to that tire's
suspension arm. This requires removing the whole shock from the car,
taking off the spring perch and spring, holding the shaft with a pair
of needle nose pliers, and turning the shock shaft end so it makes the
shaft longer.
b) Using a "tweak
device", if the bubble is to one side of the level, add more preload
to the same side (by adding ride height clips or turning the
threaded shock collar towards the bottom of the shock) until the bubble
is level.
How
do you change ride height?
Most HPI car and truck kits come with optional ride height adjustment
clips. These clips are shaped like a "C" and have a small tab
that you can hold with your fingers or pair of pliers to remove them.
Use these clips to raise the ride height, and remove them to lower the
ride height. In general, casual R/C car owners should be able to fit one
finger under the front and rear of the car's chassis, or have about 7mm
or 1/4" ride height. For racing, the ride height is lowered to 4-5mm.
For the best performance the front is a little lower than the rear.
How can I remove foam tires from wheels?
Reusing foam tire wheels can be done if you
don't mind glueing on the new foam donuts. To remove the old foams, cut
the foam across the wheel and peel away the foam while using your hobby
knife to help cut the foam away from the wheel. Hold the wheel securely
in a vise or similar location and use a wire wheel on a drill to remove
the leftover foam bits. You can also use a bench grinder with a wire wheel
and carefully remove the foam from the tire. Be sure to wear eye protection
while doing this!
Batteries
How long does a battery last?
The "runtime",
or the length of time you can drive an electric car, will vary depending
on the type of motor you use and the type of battery you use. Runtimes
can vary from 4 minutes or less to up to 30 minutes! Typically, as a hobbyist
driving your car in your driveway or parking lot, you can get between
4 to 6 minutes of good, fast runtime out of your batteries.
How
long does battery charging take?
Battery charging can range from 15 minutes to almost 40 minutes. Most
batteries that R/C newcomers buy will be charged in 15 to 20 minutes.
Each battery has a "milliamp capacity", this is the number printed
on the package (1400, 1500, 1700, 2000, 2400, 3000, etc.). The higher
the number, the more power the battery holds and the longer it takes to
charge the battery. Also, battery chargers can charge at different "amp
rates", or power output, so a battery that can charge at 6 amps will
charge a particular batter faster than a charger that's charging up that
same battery at 4 amps.
What
kind of batteries should I get?
For someone new to the
hobby, this usually depends on your budget. Most newcomers get the cheap
1400 batteries that are already packaged with a plug. These batteries
fit in nearly every electric R/C hobby kit and can cost as low as $12
USD. More expensive batteries hold more battery charge, but can cost two
or three times as much. The most expensive batteries are reserved for
racers and while they can be used for playing around, the extra money
is better spent on more batteries, not super-high-quality batteries.
Are
saddle or stick packs better?
For R/C newcomers, stick-type battery packs are fine. They will fit
in every HPI electric kit and most other R/C hobby kits that you could
build. Saddle-type battery packs are better for racing (in kits that use
these types of batteries), however you don't have to worry about this
if you're just starting out.
Do
I have to build battery packs?
Usually, only the highest-quality batteries are packaged in what is
called "6-cell loose packs". These batteries must be soldered
together and attached with wires and metal bars. Like saddle packs (above),
these batteries are best left for racers and if you're just starting out
you don't need to buy these 6-cell loose packs.
Battery
Chargers
What battery charger should
I get?
All we recommend for
a battery charger is a "peak charger". This will charge almost
any type of battery that you can find. If you have a "nickel metal-hydride"
battery pack you will need to contact the manufacturer or see their website
to see if the charger will properly charge that type of battery. Usually
you will need a "delta peak charger" to charge nickel metal-hydride
batteries properly. Popular battery charger manufacturers include Novak
Electronics, Team Orion,
Integy
and Tekin.
In Europe you can find LRP Electronic
chargers also. Each of these manufacturers offer well-made battery chargers.
Unless you have easy access to a car battery or 12-volt power supply,
we suggest an "AC/DC" type charger that will plug into a wall
electric socket. Battery chargers range from $30 USD for simple timed
chargers to several hundred dollars for multipurpose chargers that are
computer-controlled. A battery charger typically lasts a long time, so
plan to spend a good portion of your budget on a good charger.
Electronic
Speed Controllers
What ESC should I get?
All HPI electric kits
require an Electronic Speed Controller, also called ESC for short. ESC's
are similar to battery chargers: they are usually good-quality pieces
of electronic equipment and generally last a long time. Good ESC manufacturers
include Novak
Electronics, LRP Electronic
and Tekin.
Electronic speed controllers cost between $30 and $140 USD. Only the most
experienced racers can feel the difference between an expensive ESC and
a lower-cost ESC, so don't feel you must spend more than $70 USD for one.
I
have problems with my ESC!
We cannot provide help
with electronic equipment in your kit, so we must refer you to the manufacturer
or local representative if you have a warranty claim or problem with your
ESC. See the documentation that came with your ESC or see our Links
page for their web site address.
Motors
What
motor should I get?
For your first motor,
we recommend a standard "stock" motor that has 27 turns. If
this is not available, a motor with 17 to 23 turns is recommended. These
are low-speed motors that allow you to get used to driving the car. If
you do crash it or hit something, you probably won't be going that fast
to do much damage to the body or car itself. More experienced hobbyists
can pick a lower-wind motor (11 to 16 turns), which goes much faster. Popular
motor manufacturers include Team Orion,
Reedy, Trinity, Peak,
and many others. See our
Links page for several web sites that sell different
motors.
What
do winds/turns on the motor mean?
A "turn" is the length of wire that is wrapped around the
part of the motor spins inside (called the armature). The more turns on
the armature, the slower it turns, and the less turns, the faster it spins.
The highest turn motors are the slowest, these are the 27 turn "stock"
motors popular in the United States. The lowest turn "modified"
motors are the fastest, these range from 7 to 9 turns. Modified motors
use much more power than a stock motor.
A "wind" is the number
of wires that are used to wrap around the part of the motor that spins
inside (called the armature). For Touring Car use, the most popular wind
for a modified motor is a "double wind", meaning that two wires
are wrapped around the armature. Stock 27-turn motors use a "single"
wind, so only one wire is wrapped around the armature, 27 times. The lower
the number of winds, the faster the motor reaches top speed and the more
torque it has. The higher the number of winds (usually up to six), the
slower the motor reaches top speed. High-wind motors are usually used
to race pan cars.
What
is the best motor/battery combination for runtime?
If you want maximum runtime, you can probably find either a "Mabuchi"
or "Johnson" brand motor at your local hobby shop. These are
mass-produced motors that are very slow but consume very little battery
power. For more speed a stock motor from any motor manufacturer will give
you between 5 and 10 minutes of runtime.
What
kind of runtime can I get with ____ battery and ____ motor?
Without a big chart, it's impossible to say exactly how long you can
drive a car with a particular motor and battery combination. The higher
the milliamp rating on the battery (the number that says 1400, 1500, 1700,
2000, 2400, 3000, etc.), the longer you can drive. The higher the number
of turns on your motor, the longer the battery will last. Runtimes can
vary from 4 minutes with a low-turn modified motor to almost 30 minutes
using a Mabuchi or Johnson motor.
Why
do some racers solder their battery/motor wires instead of use plugs?
Most battery plugs are very inefficient in use and racers want to
squeeze every bit of power out of their motors and batteries. Soldering
the wires directly to the motor and/or battery instead of using plugs
is one way to regain some of the lost battery power. There are a couple
of types of plugs that lose almost no power, however preassembled battery
packs aren't equipped with them.
Gears
Why do my spur gears keep stripping?
Stripping a spur gear
(a flat spot on the plastic gear that turns the drivetrain of the car)
is not caused by the spur gear or pinion gear. A stripped spur gear is
caused by the pinion gear not having the correct mesh with the spur gear.
How
can I get correct gear mesh?
The easiest way to learn that you have the correct gear mesh is to
use a piece of paper and fit it between the spur gear and pinion gear
as you tighten the motor mount screws. After the motor is completely tightened,
the piece of paper should be impossible to remove except by turning the
spur gear to rotate the paper out of place. With the paper gone, turn
the spur gear with a finger and feel the amount of movement or "play"
there is between the spur gear and pinion gear. There should be very little
play, but you should feel a little bit. This is the correct gear mesh.
With practice, you will no longer strip any spur gears.
Make sure the motor mount screws
are very tight, a big crash could move the motor towards or away from
the spur gear, making the spur gear strip out.
What
does a slipper clutch do?
A slipper clutch is a device that fits on or near the spur gear, and
helps absorb "drivetrain shock" that occurs when a car
lands from a jump. A slipper clutch also helps aid traction in slippery
conditions, since it acts as a mechanical way to limit the power that
reaches the drivetrain.
Why
do you not recommend 2 speeds for off-road or reverse?
Every 2 speed uses special, very expensive bearings called "one-way
bearings". If these one-way bearings have dirt, dust or other materials
in them, they can be ruined very quickly. Running any R/C vehicle off-road
gets dirt and dust all over it, and a one-way bearing is easy to destroy
in a dirt-filled environment.
Jumping and using a reversing
Electronic Speed Controller will also make the one-way bearing turn in
a direction it was not designed to do, and could damage it.
For these reasons, we will not
repair or replace any one-way bearing that is used off-road or in a vehicle
that used or uses a reversing ESC.
Radio
What
radio should I get?
Radios are a vital part of the R/C equipment list. You should prepare
to spend a good portion of your R/C budget on a radio you are comfortable
with. For most newcomers to the hobby, an AM radio is sufficient for having
fun and adequately controlling a car or truck kit. Most R/C radio companies
offer AM radios. If it's possible, try to find a low-priced FM radio,
preferably with a digital or computer controller. JR Racing and Hitec
RCD both offer reasonably priced FM radios. As you get more experienced
or obtain more car and truck kits, you may want to get a digital radio
that can hold settings for several models. Airtronics/Sanwa,
Futaba, Hitec
RCD, JR Propo, Multiplex
R/C and KO Propo are reputable
companies that offer quality radio, receiver and servo products. They
also make Electronic Speed Controllers!
What are these different
bands (27, 40, 75, etc.)?
Every radio and receiver set transmits in a specified range of radio
frequencies, generally called a "band". Each country has a set
of laws that defines what is legal. For instance, 40 band radios are allowed
in some European countries and Japan, but not the United States. 27 band
is the most popular to use because it is usable worldwide, however the
fewest number of frequencies are available in 27 band (12 in Europe and
Japan, but only 6 in the US).
My car is glitching/I
can't control my car!
The first thing you should do before starting to run your car is make
sure no one is on the same frequency as you are. In the US, frequencies
are labeled with a simple number. In other countries, most racers use
the last digits after the decimal point to identify the radio frequency
they are on. Before running your car you MUST make certain that no one
else will be interfering with the radio frequency you are using.
After making sure you are on a clear frequency, check
these items, in order: radio antenna fully extended, radio batteries fully
charged or fresh, the receiver antenna wire is not touching graphite or
metal items, the receiver or transmitter crystal is not broken, the receiver
is mounted as high as possible on the chassis, or finally the receiver
is mounted so the crystal is as far above the chassis as possible.
If none of these help, contact the manufacturer or distributor
of the radio for support.
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